Growing Tomatoes Tomatoes

When to Plant Tomatoes in Texas for a Big Harvest

“Hey there, fellow Texas green thumb! If you’re wondering when to plant tomatoes in our great Lone Star State, you’ve hit the jackpot. This article uncovers the secrets to timing your planting just right, tailored specifically to our unique Texan climate. You’ll be harvesting plump, juicy tomatoes in no time! Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a newcomer to the backyard plot, we’ve got the inside scoop. So grab your gloves, we’re about to dig deep into the when, where, and how of planting your perfect Texas tomato garden. Ready? Let’s get growing, y’all!”

Growing Tomatoes in Texas

Identify the Tomato Growing Regions in Texas

Now, this ain’t your first rodeo, and you know Texas ain’t just big—it’s diverse. Our tomato growing is as varied as our barbecue. So, let’s mosey through our regions, shall we?

1. Piney Woods (East Texas):

It’s as humid here as a sweating glass of sweet tea on a hot day. Your tomatoes will need to outsmart that sneaky blight, but boy, they’ll be juicy.

Here in towns like Tyler, Longview, and Nacogdoches, tomatoes feel right at home. Smith, Gregg, and Nacogdoches counties have soil that tomatoes seem to take a shine to.

2. Panhandle Plains (North Texas):

Winters can be colder than a well digger’s knee in January. The growing season’s shorter than a junebug’s lifespan, so timing’s key. Choose quick-maturing varieties here.

Amarillo, Lubbock, and Wichita Falls are where it’s at. Just watch those frost dates in Potter, Lubbock, and Wichita counties, y’all!

3. Prairies and Lakes (Central Texas):

This region’s got weather as unpredictable as a game of Texas Hold ’em. Some years it’s hot, others it’s cold, and sometimes it’s a mix. Heirlooms and hybrids do well here.

You’ll find Dallas, Fort Worth, and Waco in this region. Dallas, Tarrant, and McLennan counties have a knack for tomatoes, unpredictable weather notwithstanding.

4. South Texas Plains:

Warm as a bowl of chili on a winter day. Growing season’s long enough to make Jack’s beanstalk jealous. You could get two tomato seasons if you play your cards right.

You’ll find tomatoes loving the warmth in Laredo, Brownsville, and McAllen. Webb, Cameron, and Hidalgo counties might give you double the pleasure with two harvests in a good year.

5. Hill Country (Central-West Texas):

Here, the soil can be rockier than the road to love. But with a little compost and TLC, your tomatoes can thrive like a honky-tonk on a Saturday night.

Austin, San Antonio, and Fredericksburg are prime for tomato growing. Travis, Bexar, and Gillespie counties could make your tomatoes happier than a long-tailed cat in a room full of catnip.

6. Big Bend Country (Far West Texas):

Drier than a humorless sermon, but don’t despair. With a good watering system, your tomatoes will produce fruit sweeter than pecan pie.

El Paso, Midland, and Odessa can grow a fine tomato with a little tender loving care. El Paso, Midland, and Ector counties are where you want to be for that sweet fruit.

7. Gulf Coast (Coastal Texas):

It’s usually as balmy as a Galveston beach, but be warned. Storms can swoop in faster than a hungry armadillo on an anthill. But with a little care, your tomatoes will sing.

Houston, Corpus Christi, and Galveston can be tomato paradises. Harris, Nueces, and Galveston counties have the Gulf’s warmth to give your tomatoes a good start.

Remember, in Texas, whether you’re talking football, barbecue, or tomatoes, it’s all about the right strategy!

When to Plant Tomatoes in Texas

Well, pull up a chair and let’s take a jaunt through the tomato-growing regions of our fair Texas state:

When to Plant Tomatoes in Texas

1. Piney Woods (East Texas):

  • ⮞ Micro-climate: Humid subtropical, high rainfall.
  • ⮞ USDA Zone: 8a – 9a
  • ⮞ First Frost: Late November
  • ⮞ Last Frost: Late March
  • ⮞ Growing Season: 240 days
  • ⮞ Start Seeds: Mid-January
  • ⮞ Transplant: When soil temps are above 60°F, typically late March
  • ⮞ Safe Transplant Window: April 10 – August 15

2. Panhandle Plains (North Texas):

  • ⮞ Micro-climate: Semi-arid, cooler winters.
  • ⮞ USDA Zone: 6b – 7b
  • ⮞ First Frost: Early November
  • ⮞ Last Frost: Mid-April
  • ⮞ Growing Season: 190 days
  • ⮞ Start Seeds: Late February
  • ⮞ Transplant: When soil temps exceed 60°F, usually mid-April
  • ⮞ Safe Transplant Window: April 30 – July 20

3. Prairies and Lakes (Central Texas):

  • ⮞ Micro-climate: Humid subtropical, moderate rainfall.
  • ⮞ USDA Zone: 8a – 8b
  • ⮞ First Frost: Late November
  • ⮞ Last Frost: Mid-March
  • ⮞ Growing Season: 245 days
  • ⮞ Start Seeds: Early January
  • ⮞ Transplant: When soil is consistently above 60°F, often mid-March
  • ⮞ Safe Transplant Window: March 30 – August 20

4. South Texas Plains:

  • ⮞ Micro-climate: Subtropical, hot and dry.
  • ⮞ USDA Zone: 9a – 9b
  • ⮞ First Frost: Early December
  • ⮞ Last Frost: Late February
  • ⮞ Growing Season: 275 days
  • ⮞ Start Seeds: Early December
  • ⮞ Transplant: When soil temps reach 60°F, usually late February
  • ⮞ Safe Transplant Window: March 15 – September 20

5. Hill Country (Central-West Texas):

  • ⮞ Micro-climate: Semi-arid, varied topography.
  • ⮞ USDA Zone: 7b – 8b
  • ⮞ First Frost: Mid-November
  • ⮞ Last Frost: Late March
  • ⮞ Growing Season: 220 days
  • ⮞ Start Seeds: Late January
  • ⮞ Transplant: Once soil temps are consistently above 60°F, typically late March
  • ⮞ Safe Transplant Window: April 10 – August 5

6. Big Bend Country (Far West Texas):

  • ⮞ Micro-climate: Arid desert, hot summers and mild winters.
  • ⮞ USDA Zone: 7b – 8b
  • ⮞ First Frost: Late November
  • ⮞ Last Frost: Mid-March
  • ⮞ Growing Season: 240 days
  • ⮞ Start Seeds: Mid-January
  • ⮞ Transplant: After soil temps maintain above 60°F, generally mid-March
  • ⮞ Safe Transplant Window: April 1 – August 15

7. Gulf Coast (Coastal Texas):

  • ⮞ Micro-climate: Humid subtropical, high humidity, and rainfall.
  • ⮞ USDA Zone: 9a – 10a
  • ⮞ First Frost: Mid-December
  • ⮞ Last Frost: Late February
  • ⮞ Growing Season: 285 days
  • ⮞ Start Seeds: Early December
  • ⮞ Transplant: When soil temps hold above 60°F, usually late February
  • ⮞ Safe Transplant Window: March 15 – September 25

Remember, these are just some guideposts. Mother Nature doesn’t always play by the rules, so be sure to adapt as needed.

Tomato Plant Care Tips and Tricks in Texas

Keeping your tomato plants healthy is like maintaining a good rhythm on the dance floor – it requires balance, attention, and a little bit of love. So, let’s jump into these Texas-sized tomato care tips:

1. Water Wisely

Tomato plants, like a sun-parched cowboy, love a good drink. But remember, it’s all about balance. Deep, infrequent watering is the key. Think of it as a slow Texas two-step rather than a quick jive.

2. Mulch Matters

A good layer of mulch helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps the soil cool – just what you need during a Texas summer. It’s like giving your tomatoes their very own cowboy hat!

3. Stake ‘Em or Cage ‘Em

Support your tomatoes like a trusty sidekick in a western. Stakes, cages, or trellises will keep them off the ground and help prevent diseases.

4. Watch for Pests

Texas has more critters than a country fair, and some love tomatoes as much as you do. Keep an eye out for hornworms, aphids, or stink bugs. If you see ’em, it’s time for a good old-fashioned standoff.

5. Beware of Diseases

Early blight, late blight, and leaf spot are just a few of the diseases that can cause a ruckus. Rotate your crops, clean up plant debris, and choose resistant varieties to keep things under control.

6. Feed ‘Em Right

We’ve already talked about fertilizing, but it bears repeating. Use a balanced fertilizer at transplant, then switch to a tomato-specific one at flowering and fruiting.

7. Prune with Purpose

Some folks swear by pruning, others don’t touch their plants. If you decide to prune, do it early in the morning when plants are less stressed. It’s like grabbing the best donut at breakfast.

8. Harvest Timely

Pick your tomatoes when they’re fully colored but still firm, like a perfect peach at a farm stand. If you leave ’em too long, you risk splitting or pest issues.

Remember, y’all, tomato plants are like a good country song. They need a little bit of love, a touch of hardship, and a lot of sunshine to truly thrive.

Best Tips and Tricks to Prepare Tomato Seeds in Texas

If you’re looking to raise the best tomatoes this side of the Mississippi, you’ve come to the right place. Buckle up and let’s ride through the wild world of seed prep, seed bed creation, and all that fun stuff. Hold on to your cowboy hats!

1. Prepping Those Tomato Seeds:

Choose Wisely: Start by picking your tomato variety like you’d pick a good dance partner. You want one that can handle the Texas heat and won’t leave you hanging at the height of the season.

Start Indoors: In Texas, we start our tomatoes indoors, where they’re protected from those surprise late-winter frosts that can be as unwelcome as a rattlesnake in a sleeping bag.

Timing Is Everything: Start about 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. So, depending on your zone, you’ll want to saddle up between late January and late February.

Go Deep: Plant your seeds about 1/4 inch deep in seed starter mix. It’s lighter than potting soil and will give your seedlings a better start than a racehorse out of the gate.

2. Prepping That Seed Bed:

Location, Location, Location: Choose a spot that gets more sunshine than a sunflower in the summertime, ideally 6-8 hours a day.

Give ‘Em Room: Tomatoes need space to spread out, so plan for 24-36 inches between plants. Crowded plants are more stressed than a long-tail cat in a room full of rocking chairs.

Enrich the Soil: Tomatoes prefer a rich, well-draining soil. Add plenty of compost or aged manure. This is Texas, so we’re no strangers to bull…manure.

3. Caring Until Transplanting:

Light ‘Em Up: Seedlings need plenty of light. A south-facing window works, but a grow light might be even better.

Keep ‘Em Cozy: They like it warm, around 70-75 degrees. A heat mat can help if your house is chillier than an iced tea in February.

Don’t Drown ‘Em: Water lightly, just enough to keep the soil damp but not waterlogged. Too much water is as helpful as a chocolate teapot.

Harden Off: Before transplanting, gradually introduce your plants to the outside world. It’s like sending your kids off to college, but with less crying.

Transplant Time: Wait until the soil warms to at least 60°F after the last frost. The risk of frost should be as gone as a tumbleweed in a windstorm.

Remember, growing tomatoes in Texas is a tradition as deep-rooted as Friday night football. And there’s nothing better than biting into a sun-warmed, vine-ripened tomato you’ve grown yourself.

How to Transplant Tomatoes in Texas

Now that you’ve sprouted your tomato seeds, it’s time to mosey on down to transplant town. Here’s how we do it in the Lone Star State, whether you’re settling your seedlings into the ground, a raised bed, or a planter.

1. Wait for the Right Time

Timing is more important than a good BBQ sauce at a Texas cook-off. Wait until soil temperatures are a steady 60°F or higher. Generally, this is two weeks after the last frost date.

2. Harden ‘Em Off

Don’t just throw your indoor-grown plants outside. It’s like asking a house cat to wrangle a bull. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions over 7-10 days to toughen ’em up.

3. Deep Planting

Plant ’em deep, y’all. When it comes to tomatoes, bury them up to their first true leaves. They’ll sprout roots from the buried stem faster than a prairie dog digging a hole.

4. Choose the Right Spot

Full sun is the way to go. Aim for six to eight hours a day. Remember, a shaded tomato is about as happy as a hen without a roost.

5. Space ‘Em Out

Whether in the ground or a raised bed, give your plants room to breathe. About 2-3 feet between plants should do the trick. They need more elbow room than a longhorn in a cattle chute.

6. Pot Size

If you’re planting in pots, think big. Tomatoes need a lot of root space, so the pot should be at least 18 inches in diameter. A cramped tomato plant is as miserable as a coyote in a henhouse.

7. Compost and Mulch

Use compost for a nutrient boost, and mulch to retain moisture and prevent weeds. It’s like giving your tomatoes a bed with a cozy blanket.

8. Water Wisely

Water thoroughly after transplanting, but don’t drown ’em. They want a drink, not a bath.

9. Cage or Stake Early

Get your stakes or cages in place now to avoid damaging roots later. A well-supported tomato plant stands tall, just like a Texan.

How to Prepare Soil for Planting Tomatoes in Texas

If you’re ready to transform your Texas backyard into a tomato paradise, then let’s talk dirt. Because, let’s face it, behind every great tomato is some fantastic soil. Here are some Texas-sized tips for getting your soil ready for those juicy beauties.

1. Start Early

Start prepping your soil as soon as that ground thaws. We’re not saying you need to be out there with a pickaxe in January, but don’t dilly-dally till the last minute either.

2. Test Your Soil

Before you start, know what you’re working with. It’s as important as knowing if you’re two-stepping or line-dancing. Pick up a soil test kit at your local garden center. You want slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6.2 and 6.8, just right for tomatoes.

3. Get the Right Texture

Good soil is like perfect cornbread – it crumbles just right. If it clumps together or feels sandy, it needs some work. Add organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure to improve clay or sandy soils.

4. Add Compost

Compost is to tomatoes what sweet tea is to a Texas barbecue. Add a good amount to your soil to provide your tomatoes with the nutrients they crave.

5. Consider Raised Beds

If you’re fighting heavy clay or sandy soils, consider raised beds. They let you control your soil and improve drainage – a definite plus in our Texas rains!

6. Rotate Your Crops

Don’t plant tomatoes in the same spot every year, or you’ll have more disease and pest problems than a picnic has ants. Rotate your crops to keep the soil healthy.

7. Warm It Up

Tomatoes like their soil like we Texans like our chili – hot! Cover your soil with black plastic or a layer of mulch a week or two before planting to warm it up.

Remember, the secret to a good garden is starting from the ground up. So roll up your sleeves, dig in, and before you know it, you’ll have a tomato crop worthy of Texas pride.

How to Fertilize Tomatoes in Texas

Proper fertilization of your tomatoes is crucial, like good manners at a Texas barbeque. Your tomatoes, like any self-respecting Texan, crave a balanced diet. Here’s how to feed them right and get a harvest bigger than Dallas:

1. Start with Compost

Before those plants hit the soil, mix in some well-rotted compost. It’s the baked beans to your BBQ, providing slow-release nutrients over the season.

2. Balanced Fertilizer

Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer (10-10-10) at planting time. Tomatoes don’t just crave one nutrient – they need an all-you-can-eat buffet.

3. Hold the Nitrogen, Please

Too much nitrogen will give you beautiful, lush plants…with fewer tomatoes than a grocery store in a blizzard. Make sure your fertilizer is balanced or even slightly higher in phosphorus.

4. Add Calcium

Prevent blossom end rot by ensuring your tomatoes get plenty of calcium. Crushed eggshells, gypsum, or bone meal can help.

5. Side-Dress Responsibly

Once your plants start setting fruit, give them a boost with a side-dressing of compost or balanced fertilizer. But remember, less is more. Over-feeding is like over-watering a whiskey – it just dilutes the good stuff.

6. Consider Foliar Sprays

These can be used to provide a quick nutrient boost, but don’t rely on them alone. They’re the margarita to your Mexican dinner – nice, but not the main course.

7. Water Well

Water carries nutrients into the plant, so a well-watered tomato is a well-fed tomato. However, just like at the saloon, you don’t want to overdo it!

8. Know When to Stop

Stop fertilizing a month before your first frost date. Your tomatoes need time to prepare for winter, just like you need to prepare for the rodeo.

Remember, gardening is like a good Texas two-step. It takes some practice to get it right, but once you do, you’ll be the belle of the ball – or in this case, the tomato-growing champ of the block! Happy gardening, y’all!

How to Water Tomato Plants in Texas

Watering tomatoes in the Lone Star State isn’t as simple as rustlin’ up some cattle. But don’t fret; I’m here to spill the beans on how to keep your tomatoes happily hydrated, Texas style.

1. Deep Watering

A tomato’s roots are deeper than a Texan’s love for chili. Give ’em a good, deep soak rather than a light sprinkle. Think of it as a long, slow country dance instead of a quick two-step.

2. Early Morning Watering

Water your tomatoes in the cool morning hours, like brewing that first cup of joe. This reduces evaporation and helps your plants start their day refreshed.

3. Avoid Watering the Foliage

Aim to keep your tomato leaves as dry as a Texan summer to prevent fungal diseases. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to water the base of your plants.

4. Mulching

Mulching is like giving your tomatoes their very own Stetson. It keeps the soil cool, helps retain moisture, and prevents soil from splashing onto the leaves, which can spread diseases.

5. Don’t Overwater

Overwatering tomatoes is like overcooking a steak; it just isn’t right. Tomatoes don’t like soggy feet, and too much water can lead to root rot and dilute flavor.

6. Adjust to Weather

Adjust your watering according to the weather. In the hot, dry Western Texas climate, you might need to water more often. But in the humid East, you might need to pull back.

Remember, watering is about more than just turning on a hose. It’s about understanding your plants, your soil, and your local weather. Keep these tips in your back pocket, and you’ll be growing tomatoes that are the envy of the whole county!

Common Tomato Diseases in Texas

Just like a cowboy’s gotta watch out for snakes and scorpions, you gotta keep an eye out for diseases hitting your tomato crop. But no worries – we’re gonna wrangle these pests together. Here’s the most wanted list:

1. Early Blight:

  • Caused by: Fungus (Alternaria solani)
  • Symptoms: Dark spots on leaves, followed by yellowing and wilting.
  • Solutions: Rotate crops, prune low leaves, use copper-based fungicides, or organic options like baking soda sprays.
  • Regions: Common statewide.
  • Resistant Varieties: Mountain Magic (F1, VFF), Plum Regal (F1, VFFNT).

2. Late Blight:

  • Caused by: Fungus-like organism (Phytophthora infestans)
  • Symptoms: Grey patches on leaves and fruits.
  • Solutions: Destroy infected plants, apply copper or chlorothalonil sprays.
  • Regions: More common in East Texas due to humidity.
  • Resistant Varieties: Defiant (PhR, F1, VFF), Iron Lady (F1, VFFFN, PhR, St).

3. Fusarium Wilt:

  • Caused by: Soilborne fungus (Fusarium oxysporum)
  • Symptoms: Yellowing and wilting leaves, often on just one side of the plant.
  • Solutions: Rotate crops, plant resistant varieties, use soil fumigants.
  • Regions: Common statewide.
  • Resistant Varieties: Better Boy (VFN), Champion (VFNT).

4. Verticillium Wilt:

  • Caused by: Soilborne fungus (Verticillium dahliae)
  • Symptoms: Yellowing, wilting leaves, starting at the bottom.
  • Solutions: Use resistant varieties, solarize soil.
  • Regions: Common statewide.
  • Resistant Varieties: Celebrity (VFNT), Ace 55 (VF).

5. Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus:

  • Caused by: Thrips insects spreading the virus.
  • Symptoms: Stunted growth, spotted or distorted fruits.
  • Solutions: Control thrips, remove infected plants, plant resistant varieties.
  • Regions: More prevalent in Central and East Texas.
  • Resistant Varieties: BHN 444-Sweet (TGC), Bella Rosa (VFFNTSt).

6. Bacterial Spot:

  • Caused by: Bacteria (Xanthomonas campestris)
  • Symptoms: Dark, wet spots on leaves and fruits.
  • Solutions: Avoid overhead watering, use copper sprays.
  • Regions: More common in East Texas due to humidity.
  • Resistant Varieties: None known – rotating crops and sanitation are key.

7. Bacterial Wilt:

  • Caused by: Soilborne bacteria (Ralstonia solanacearum)
  • Symptoms: Wilting without yellowing of leaves.
  • Solutions: Crop rotation, soil fumigation, proper sanitation.
  • Regions: More common in Southern Texas.
  • Resistant Varieties: None available, focus on prevention.

8. Nematodes:

  • Caused by: Tiny worms damaging roots.
  • Symptoms: Stunted growth, wilting during hot weather.
  • Solutions: Marigolds or mustard as cover crops, rotate with non-host crops, nematicides.
  • Regions: Statewide, especially in sandy soils.
  • Resistant Varieties: Better Boy (VFN), Big Beef (VFFNT).

9. Leaf Mold:

  • Caused by: Fungus (Fulvia fulva)
  • Symptoms: Yellow spots on leaf tops, mold on undersides.
  • Solutions: Avoid overhead watering, use fungicides.
  • Regions: More common in humid areas of East Texas.
  • Resistant Varieties: Juliet (IR: Ff A-E), Mountain Merit (VFFNTSt, LB, LM).

10. Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus:

  • Caused by: Spread by whiteflies.
  • Symptoms: Upward curling leaves, stunted growth.
  • Solutions: Control whiteflies, use reflective mulches, plant resistant varieties.
  • Regions: More prevalent in Southern Texas.
  • Resistant Varieties: Tycoon (VFFFSt, TSW, TYLCV), Shanty (TYLCV).

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of tomatoes! So, keep these tips under your hat and your tomatoes will be healthier than a Texas steer!

How to Harvest Tomatoes in Texas

We’ve done danced this Texas two-step all the way from planting to tending, and now it’s time for the grand finale – the harvest. Here’s how to bring in your Texas tomatoes in style:

1. Watch for the Color

A good, ripe Texas tomato should be as red as a cowboy’s neck after a day in the sun. But don’t forget, some varieties are yellow, orange, or even purple when ripe.

2. Firm but Gentle

Give the tomato a gentle squeeze. It should feel firm, but with a little give, like a good saddle.

3. Twist and Shout

Well, maybe not shout. But a ripe tomato should come off the vine with a gentle twist. Don’t yank it like you’re roping a steer!

4. Morning Harvest

The early bird gets the tomato. Harvest in the cool of the morning for the best flavor, before the sun’s turned up the Texas heat.

5. Leave the Stem

Keep a little bit of the stem on each tomato. This helps them last longer, especially if you’re planning on entering them into the State Fair!

6. Don’t Chill ’em

Tomatoes ain’t like iced tea, they don’t like the cold. Store them at room temperature for the best flavor.

7. Get the Green Ones

If you see frost on the horizon, better harvest those green tomatoes. They won’t ripen off the vine, but they make some fine fried green tomatoes.

Harvesting tomatoes ain’t as tricky as a game of Texas Hold’em. It’s all about the timing and the gentle touch of a cowboy’s hand. So get out there and bring in your bounty. Happy harvesting, y’all!

Common Tomato Varieties in Texas

Now, here in the Lone Star state, we take our tomatoes as seriously as a longhorn at a rodeo. But, the question that has more twists than a two-step is, how’s a good ol’ Texan supposed to pick the right tomato for their patch? Well, put down that Shiner, because we’re about to go over the top 35 tomato varieties for Texas. So, strap on your boots and let’s mosey!

  1. Celebrity: Hybrid, Determinate, 70 days, VFFNT. As dependable as a cowhand at dawn.
  2. Big Beef: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 73 days, VFFNTA. Bigger and beefier than a Texas Longhorn.
  3. Early Girl: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 50-60 days, VFF. Gets to work quicker than a jackrabbit.
  4. Sweet 100: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 65 days, VF. As sweet as a belle at a debutante ball.
  5. Roma: Heirloom, Determinate, 75-80 days, VF. Perfect for salsas hotter than a Texas summer.
  6. Better Boy: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 70-75 days, VFN. As reliable as a Ford pickup.
  7. Sun Gold: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 65 days, F. Like a mouthful of Texas sunshine.
  8. Black Krim: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80-90 days. As surprising as finding water in the desert.
  9. Super Fantastic: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 70 days, VF. More fantastic than the State Fair.
  10. Beefsteak: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80-100 days. As hearty as a plate of BBQ brisket.
  11. Sun Gold: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 55-65 days, FTMV.
  12. Big Boy: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 78 days, VF.
  13. Yellow Pear: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 78 days. These little yellers are as tough as a Longhorn!
  14. Ace 55: Heirloom, Determinate, 80 days, VF.
  15. Mountain Fresh Plus: Hybrid, Determinate, 77 days, VFFFTSWNSt.
  16. Super Sioux: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 70-80 days. They’re so hearty, and they could survive a Texas drought!
  17. Black Cherry: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 65-75 days. Their taste is as sweet as a Texas belle!
  18. Mortgage Lifter: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 85-90 days. They’re so big that they could lift a mortgage or two!
  19. Porter: Heirloom, Determinate, 70-75 days, Disease resistance codes are unknown, but they’re as resilient as a cowboy on the trail!
  20. Husky Red: Hybrid, Determinate, 68 days, VF.
  21. Cherokee Purple: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80-90 days. As unique as Texas itself.
  22. Heatwave II: Hybrid, Determinate, 68 days, VFFASt. Can handle a Texas summer like a pro.
  23. Jetsetter: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 64 days, VFFNTA. Quick as a cowpoke in a gunfight.
  24. Brandywine: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 90 days. Classic as the Alamo.
  25. Super Sweet 100: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 65 days, VF. Sweeter than pecan pie.
  26. Juliet: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 60 days, LB. Little, but packed with Lone Star spirit.
  27. Mountain Spring: Hybrid, Determinate, 75 days, VF. As refreshing as a dip in the Frio River.
  28. Patio: Hybrid, Determinate, 65-70 days, VF. Perfect for them city slickers.
  29. San Marzano: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80 days. Makes a spaghetti sauce worth two-stepping about.
  30. Lemon Boy: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 72 days, VFN. Brighter than a yellow rose.
  31. Golden Jubilee: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 72 days. A taste of Texas gold.
  32. Green Zebra: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 78 days. As wild as a ride at the rodeo.
  33. Husky Cherry Red: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 65 days, VF. As playful as a litter of Blue Heeler pups.
  34. Caspian Pink: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80 days. Prettier than a sunset over the Hill Country.
  35. Pink Brandywine: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 90-100 days. A Southern belle of a tomato.


Well, partners, we’ve had quite a ride learning about when to plant tomatoes in our mighty Texas. The takeaway? Start early, often indoors, considering our frost dates and wild Texas weather. Pay heed to our different tomato growing regions, each with its own charming quirks. Choose your variety wisely, and don’t be shy about trying a new dance partner. Remember our expert care tips, from seed to harvest, and keep an eye out for them pesky diseases. So, grab your garden gloves, put on that sun hat, and let’s get to plantin’. ‘Cause there ain’t nothing tastes better than a home-grown Texas tomato! Yeehaw!


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