Growing Tomatoes Tomatoes

When To Plant Tomatoes In Missouri: Unveiling The Ideal Time

Welcome, fellow Missouri green thumbs! Ever wondered when it’s the prime time to plop those ‘love apples’ (Yep, we’re talkin’ tomatoes here) in the dirt? Wait no more, we’ve got your answers! Let’s deep-dive into the world of juicy, sun-ripened, homegrown tomatoes right here in our beloved Show-Me State. In this guide, we’ll navigate through the seasons, dodge the frost dates, and trot right onto the tomato planting highway. By the end of this journey, you’ll be brimming with knowledge and ripe with confidence. So grab your trowels, folks – it’s tomato time!

Tomato Growing Regions

It’s time to get our hands dirty with some geographically correct tomato-growing advice. After all, where we decide to plant our tomatoes is just as important as when!

1. The North Missouri Marvels

Oh, you brave souls! With a shorter growing season, you’ve got to be quick on the draw. Choose fast-maturing varieties, and use a bit of ‘hot caps’ magic to keep ’em cozy.

In the north, Kansas City and St. Joseph are two of the major cities where tomato plants can thrive, despite the shorter growing season. Buchanan, Clay, and Platte are counties known for their gardening gusto.

2. The Central Missouri Mavericks

You folks sit in the sweet spot with a bit more wiggle room. But, don’t get too comfy! Keep an eye on those late spring frosts.

Down in the heartland, you have the likes of Columbia, Jefferson City, and the ever-vibrant St. Louis. Boone, Cole, and St. Louis counties have fertile grounds for ‘mater growing.

3. The South Missouri Maestros

Ah, you lucky ducks with the longest growing season. But beware, your hot, humid summers can be a playground for pests and diseases.

Down south, we have the cities of Springfield, Joplin, and Branson, not to mention counties like Greene, Jasper, and Taney, where your tomato plants can enjoy a longer, warmer growing season.

4. The Bootheel Belters

Tucked away in the southeast corner, your rich, alluvial soil is tomato heaven. But those nasty nematodes can spoil the party if you aren’t careful.

Last but certainly not least, in the Bootheel region, you’ll find cities such as Sikeston and Caruthersville, and counties like Dunklin and New Madrid, where the rich soil can produce some tomato giants, as long as you keep those pesky nematodes in check.

Remember, good folks, no matter your location, with the right care, attention, and a dash of gardener’s grit, you can turn any patch of Missouri soil into tomato-topia! Happy planting!

When to Plant Tomatoes in Missouri

Time to unpack the nitty-gritty of our tomato-growing zones. Don’t worry, we’ll make this fun!

1. North Missouri Marvels

  • Micro-climate: Shorter, cooler growing season with tricky frost dates. Brisk winds can be an issue.
  • USDA Zone: 5b to 6a
  • First Frost Date: Early October
  • Last Frost Date: Late April
  • Growing Season: Around 150 days
  • Start seeds indoor: 6-8 weeks before last frost
  • Transplant: When soil reaches a steady 60°F (post-last frost)
  • Risk-free transplant range: Late April – Early July

2. Central Missouri Mavericks

  • Micro-climate: Moderate temps with occasional unexpected frost dates. Wild weather swings keep things interesting.
  • USDA Zone: 6a to 6b
  • First Frost Date: Mid-October
  • Last Frost Date: Mid-April
  • Growing Season: Around 180 days
  • Start seeds indoor: 6-8 weeks before last frost
  • Transplant: When soil reaches a steady 60°F (post-last frost)
  • Risk-free transplant range: Early May – Mid-July

3. South Missouri Maestros

  • Micro-climate: Longer, warmer growing season, but beware of those pests!
  • USDA Zone: 6b to 7a
  • First Frost Date: Late October
  • Last Frost Date: Early April
  • Growing Season: Around 200 days
  • Start seeds indoor: 6-8 weeks before last frost
  • Transplant: When soil reaches a steady 60°F (post-last frost)
  • Risk-free transplant range: Mid-May – Late July

4. Bootheel Belters

  • Micro-climate: Long growing season with rich, alluvial soil but nematodes might crash your tomato party.
  • USDA Zone: 7a to 7b
  • First Frost Date: Early November
  • Last Frost Date: Late March
  • Growing Season: Around 220 days
  • Start seeds indoor: 6-8 weeks before last frost
  • Transplant: When soil reaches a steady 60°F (post-last frost)
  • Risk-free transplant range: Late May – Early August
  • Remember, good folks, this is Missouri – where the weather loves to keep us on our toes! Always keep an eye on local forecasts. Now, let’s get those tomatoes growing!

How to Choose and Prepare Tomato Seeds in Missouri

It’s time for some no-nonsense, backyard wisdom from your friendly neighborhood horticulturist at the Agricultural Extension Center. Y’all ready to turn those tiny seeds into bodacious ‘mater plants? Let’s dig in!

1. Seed Preparation

A. Tomato Bootcamp

Start your seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Remember, these little soldiers need a warm, cozy environment (70-75°F) to germinate. Use a heating mat if your home feels more like a polar vortex than a tropical paradise.

B. Hydration Station

Water your seeds with a spray bottle to avoid the “Great Tomato Tsunami”. Yes, they need moisture, but no swimming lessons, please!

C. Sunshine State of Mind

Tomatoes love light, lots of it! 14-16 hours a day, if you please. Not enough window sunshine? Get grow lights. Your seeds will thank you with sprouts.

2. Seed Bed Preparation

A. Soil Soiree

Use a good quality, well-draining soil. It should be as fluffy as a well-risen biscuit and rich as a billionaire on a shopping spree.

B. Nutrient Nosh-up

Incorporate organic matter, like compost or well-rotted manure, into your soil. Think of it as the all-you-can-eat buffet for your tomato plants.

C. Weed Whacking

Keep the area weed-free. No one likes a party crasher, especially when the party is in your tomato bed.

2. Caring Until Transplant:

A. Water Wisdom

Keep the soil evenly moist, not soaking. We’re growing tomatoes, not rice.

B. Light ’em Up

As your seedlings grow, ensure they still get plenty of light to avoid ‘leggy’ plants.

C. Pamper with Potassium

When your seedlings have a couple of true leaves, a little weak tomato feed can go a long way.

D. Chilly Reception

About 2 weeks before transplanting, start hardening off your plants. Give ’em a taste of that fresh Missouri air. But remember, no frosty encounters!

E. Healthy Transplanting

When the soil is consistently at 60°F and all risk of frost has passed, it’s time to move these youngsters to the garden. Choose a cloudy day or late afternoon to avoid transplant shock.

Remember, Rome wasn’t built in a day, and a good tomato doesn’t grow overnight. Patience and a good sense of humor are your best tools.

How to Transplant Tomatoes in Missouri

Gather ’round the campfire as we discuss the pivotal chapter in the ‘Mater Growing Handbook – the all-important transplanting saga. Whether you’re going ground, raised bed, or planter route, we’ve got you covered.

1. The Grand Transplant

A. No Sudden Movements

To avoid shocking our delicate ‘mater babes, choose a cloud-covered day or late afternoon for transplanting. No blazing noon sun, capisce?

B. The Deep End

Dig a hole deep enough to bury two-thirds of the plant, yes, you read that right! It may feel like you’re burying your green friends, but this actually helps them to grow strong roots.


Tenderly loosen the roots and place the plant in the hole. Bury it up to its neck, leaving only the top leaves visible.

2. The Grounded Method:

A. Spacing Out

Plant tomatoes about 2-3 feet apart, giving them enough elbow room to grow without getting in each other’s business.

B. Mulch Mania

Mulch around the plants to keep the soil moist and weed-free. Think of it as a cozy blanket for your ‘mater plants.

3. Raised Bed Route

A. High Standards

Raised beds warm up faster, giving your tomatoes a head start. Plus, they’ve got good drainage to prevent waterlogged roots.

B. Soil Story

Fill beds with a mix of topsoil, compost, and peat moss. Kinda like making a tomato plant’s favorite cake!

4. Planter Platoon

A. Size Matters

Choose large containers (at least 5 gallons) to give roots plenty of room. Cramped roots = cranky plants.

B. Drain Drama

Ensure containers have good drainage holes. No tomato wants to swim in its own juices!

C. Potting Mix Magic

Use high-quality potting mix, and don’t forget to add a slow-release fertilizer for that extra ‘mater boost.

Transplanting may seem as tricky as a rodeo ride, but with these tips, you’ll be wrangling tomatoes like a pro. Just remember, be gentle, be patient, and above all, keep your sense of humor.

How to Prepare Soil for Planting Tomatoes in Missouri

It’s time to talk about the unsung hero of the garden world – soil! It’s more than just dirt, y’all. It’s the life-giving, plant-feeding bed of goodness where your tomatoes will lay down their roots. Let’s dive in!

1. Soil Type – The Tomato’s Preference

Tomatoes aren’t too picky, but they’ve got some preferences. They like well-draining soil. It needs to hold enough water to keep their roots happy, but drain well enough to avoid soggy toes. Think of it like the perfect bath – not too hot, not too cold, but just right.

2. Testin’ Time

First things first, get a soil test. It’s like giving your garden a checkup. This’ll tell you what’s going on under the surface. If your soil’s more acidic than a lemon, or more alkaline than baking soda, you’ll need to make adjustments. Tomatoes like their soil pH between 6.2 and 6.8 – a bit like Goldilocks, not too sour, not too sweet.

3. Organic Matter Matters

Now, this is where the magic happens. Incorporate some good old-fashioned compost, or well-rotted manure into your soil. This adds nutrients and helps with soil structure. Imagine it as the difference between eating a well-rounded meal and living off potato chips.

4. The Fertilizer Fix

Tomatoes are hungry little plants, so work in some balanced, slow-release fertilizer before planting. It’s like packing a lunchbox for your tomatoes’ first day at school.

5. Dig It Up

Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty. Loosen up that soil with a garden fork or tiller. It’ll make it easier for your tomatoes to put down roots.

6. Mulch Ado About Nothing

Finally, once your tomatoes are in the ground, mulch around them. It keeps the soil moist, keeps weeds away, and helps prevent soil-borne diseases. It’s like giving your tomatoes their own personal bodyguard.

With this guide, you’ll have soil so good, your tomatoes will be fighting to put down roots. Now, get out there and treat that soil like the garden hero it is! Happy gardening, Missouri!

How to Fertilize Tomatoes in Missouri

Are your tomatoes craving a snack? Well, it’s time to discuss the fine art of feeding your tomatoes – yes, we’re talking fertilizers. Prepare for some down-to-earth tips to turn your garden into the ultimate tomato diner.

1. Balanced Diet

Tomatoes are like teenagers, they’re always hungry. To start, use a balanced fertilizer (like a 10-10-10) before planting. It’s like giving your ‘mater babies a well-rounded breakfast before they head off to school (the garden).

2. Light Snacking

After transplanting, hold off on the heavy feeding for a bit. Wait until your plants are about the size of a kindergartner’s baseball bat and have set their first fruits. We’re trying to grow strong, healthy plants here, not tomato sumo wrestlers.

3. The Main Course

Once your tomato plants start setting fruit, it’s time for the big leagues. A high potassium, low nitrogen fertilizer will keep them producing like a hen laying eggs. We want red, juicy tomatoes, not giant tomato trees.

4. Spoon-Feeding

Remember, it’s better to fertilize a little and often rather than going for a one-time feast. Think of it as a buffet-style dinner, it’s better to go back for seconds or thirds instead of overloading your plate all at once.

5. Compost Tea Time

For an all-natural option, try giving your tomatoes a compost tea. No, it’s not the latest health trend, it’s a nutrient-rich liquid made from steeping compost in water. Your tomatoes will drink it up like sweet iced tea on a hot Missouri day.

6. Water Wisdom

Always water after fertilizing. It’s like giving your tomatoes a chaser to wash down their meal and helps get the nutrients down to the roots.

Remember, folks, the key to a successful tomato feast is balance and timing. Follow these tips and you’ll have a crop of tomatoes that are the belle of the Missouri ‘mater ball.

Tomato Plant Care Tips and Tricks in Missouri

You’ve planted, fed, and nurtured your tomatoes. Now, let’s talk about keeping those beauties healthy and happy with some good ole ‘mater TLC.

1. Preparing Seedbeds

Hey there, Missouri ‘mater-lovers! Want to grow tomatoes to make your neighbors green with envy? Start with the perfect bed. Just like your comfy mattress, tomatoes need a cushy, well-prepped seedbed. Add organic matter, balance the pH, and voila – a five-star bed for your seeds!

2. Studying the Climate

Like a seasoned weatherman, study our Missouri climate before you dive in. Some tomatoes thrive in our steamy summers, while others prefer our crisp spring. Choose the right variety for the right season, and you’re on the highway to ‘mater heaven.

3. Picking Suitable Varieties

From tiny cherry tomatoes to big, beefy ones, there’s a Missouri-friendly variety out there for you. Choose disease-resistant varieties for a crop that’s hardier than a Missouri mule in plowing season.

4. Sunshine & Showers

Tomatoes love their sunlight, like a cat on a windowsill. Give ’em at least six hours of full sun a day. And water? It’s a balancing act. Too little, and they’ll be drier than a corn husk. Too much, and they’ll be soggier than a wet biscuit. Aim for evenly moist soil, and water at the base of the plant to avoid leaf diseases.

5. Stakeout

Tomatoes can get as sprawling as a summer BBQ, so give ’em some support. Stake ’em, cage ’em, trellis ’em. Whatever tickles your fancy. Just make sure they’re held up like a southern belle’s hoop skirt.

6. Prune Patrol

Get in there and do a little pruning to keep your plants in check. Remove the suckers (those little shoots that grow in the joints of the branches) to focus the plant’s energy on growing fruits, not a forest.

7. Mulch Magic

Mulch around your plants to keep the soil moist, prevent weeds, and stop soil-borne diseases from splashing up onto your plants. It’s like giving your tomatoes a cozy blanket and a bodyguard all in one.

8. Shading and Covering

Missouri sun can be hotter than a firecracker on the Fourth of July. Some strategic shading can prevent your plants from wilting faster than ice cream on a hot sidewalk.

9. Watering

Your tomatoes need a drink, but not a drowning. Water deeply but infrequently, just enough to keep the soil as moist as a well-made Missouri mud pie.

10. Nutrient Supply

Feed your ‘mater plants like they’re winning a pie-eating contest. A balanced fertilizer at planting, then a low-nitrogen feed when fruits appear, will keep your tomatoes happier than a possum eating a sweet potato.

11. Harvesting

Patience, dear gardener! Harvest your tomatoes when they’re just the right shade of red, and they’ll be sweeter than grandma’s apple pie. Then sit back, and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Happy gardening, Missouri!

12. Watchman’s Duty

Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. If you spot leaves looking more spotted than a leopard or tomatoes with more cracks than a sidewalk, it’s time to take action. Check with your local extension office for advice on managing pests and diseases in our beloved Missouri.

13. Rotation Ritual

Rotate your tomato crops every 2-3 years to prevent diseases. It’s like musical chairs for your garden!

With these tips, you’ll be the tomato whisperer of your neighborhood. Now, put on your gardening gloves, and go give your tomatoes some lovin’!

How to Water Tomato Plants in Missouri

It’s time we chat about quenching your tomato’s thirst without turning them into waterlogged lumps. So let’s dive into the fine art of watering your ‘mater plants.

1. Slow and Steady

Just like a lazy Sunday morning, your tomatoes like their water slow and steady. A good deep soaking a few times a week is better than a daily sprinkle. That water needs to reach deeper than a possum’s burrow to encourage strong roots.

2. Root of the Matter

Water at the base of your plants. Why? Well, wet leaves can invite as many diseases as a double-dipping at a potluck. We’re trying to grow tomatoes here, not a science experiment.

3. Morning Dew

Water your plants in the early morning. It gives your plants a good start to the day, and any water that accidentally lands on the leaves will dry out as the sun rises. It’s like a sunrise coffee for your tomatoes.

4. Mulch Magic

Remember that magic carpet we call mulch? It’s back in action! Mulch around your plants to help the soil retain moisture. It’s like a sippy cup for your tomatoes, keeping them hydrated all day long.

5. Feeling It Out

To know when to water, stick your finger in the soil. If it’s drier than a cornbread crumb, it’s time to get watering. If it’s moist, hold off on the watering. Don’t worry, your tomatoes won’t think it’s rude.

Special Tips & Tricks

Consider a soaker hose or drip irrigation for the most efficient watering. This gets the water right where it’s needed, at the roots, and keeps the foliage drier than a prohibition rally.

Remember, the secret to watering is balance. Treat your tomatoes like Goldilocks – they want their water just right. With these tips, you’ll be the rainmaker of your tomato garden.

Common Tomato Diseases in Missouri

As much as we love our ‘mater plants, we gotta face the facts – they’re as prone to ailments as a cow on a diet of hot sauce. Let’s talk about those sneaky tomato diseases lurking around our Missouri gardens.

1. Early Blight

This one’s as subtle as a tractor in a ballet. Look for dark spots with concentric rings on older leaves. It hits faster than a jaybird on a junebug, so prune affected leaves, rotate crops, and keep your soil mulched to stave off this unwelcome guest.

2. Late Blight

Late Blight is like the slow cousin of Early Blight. It causes large, irregular, greasy-looking spots on leaves and fruit. Don’t be fooled by its late arrival; act swiftly and remove the affected plant faster than you’d drop a hot biscuit.

3. Septoria Leaf Spot

Tiny spots with grey centers and dark edges on the lower leaves? That’s Septoria Leaf Spot. This one spreads faster than gossip at a quilting bee, so remove and discard affected leaves at the first sign.

4. Fusarium Wilt

This one is like the silent assassin of tomato plants. It starts with yellowing leaves and leads to wilting, even with proper watering. Unfortunately, it’s as stubborn as a mule in mud – once it’s in the soil, it’s there to stay. Crop rotation and resistant varieties are your best bet.

5. Verticillium Wilt

Similar to Fusarium Wilt, Verticillium Wilt causes yellowing, wilting, and browning of the leaves. It’s sneakier than a raccoon in a hen house, so keep an eye out!

6. Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

If your plants look like they’ve got a case of the measles with bronzed or spotted leaves, they’ve likely got Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus. It’s spread by tiny insects called thrips. Keep those critters under control and remove any infected plants.

7. Bacterial Spot

Dark, greasy spots on the leaves, stem, or fruit are the calling card of Bacterial Spot. Bad news – it’s as persistent as a salesman at a farmers market. But using disease-free seeds and resistant varieties can help.

8. Bacterial Canker

This one causes wilting and browning along the stem and “bird’s eye” spots on the fruit. Treat it like your garden’s Public Enemy No.1 – remove and destroy affected plants to stop its spread.

9. Blossom End Rot

This isn’t a disease, but a disorder caused by calcium deficiency. If your tomatoes have black, sunken spots on the bottom, they’re victims of Blossom End Rot. Keep the soil pH balanced and don’t let your tomatoes’ water supply dry out.

10. Tomato Mosaic Virus

This causes mottled light and dark green leaves and reduced growth. It’s spread by direct contact, so wash your hands and tools regularly, like you’re prepping for Sunday supper.

Remember, the best medicine is prevention. With a little bit of care, you can keep your ‘mater plants healthier than a pig in mud!

How to Harvest Tomatoes in Missouri

You’ve watered, nurtured, and fussed over your tomato plants. Now comes the fun part – harvest time! It’s like the grand finale at a Fourth of July fireworks show. Let’s get into it.

1. Timing is Everything

Wait for your tomatoes to reach their perfect color – each variety has its own shade of ripe. Remember, they’re not apples – picking them green isn’t a good idea unless you’re making fried green tomatoes.

2. Gentle Hands

Tomatoes are like a prize-winning hen; they need gentle handling. Pick them with care to avoid bruising or breaking the skin. Any scratches, and they’ll go bad quicker than milk left out in the summer sun.

3. Twist and Shout

Here’s how to pick a tomato – hold the fruit in your hand, twist it until the stem breaks free from the vine. It’s as simple as opening a jar of your Grandma’s pickles.

4. Morning Glory

Pick your tomatoes in the cool of the morning. They’ll be fresher than dew on the daisies and won’t get heat-stressed from the midday sun.

5. Check Regularly

Keep an eye on your plants like a hawk on a rabbit. Check them every couple of days for ripe tomatoes ready for picking. The faster you get them off the vine, the more the plant can focus on ripening the remaining fruit.

6. Keep ’em Clean

Don’t let your tomatoes touch the ground. They’ll get dirtier than a pair of overalls after a day’s work. Stake or cage your plants to keep your fruits clean and disease-free.

7. Final Sweep

As frost approaches, pick all mature green tomatoes and let them ripen indoors. It’s not as ideal as vine-ripened, but it’s better than letting Jack Frost have the last laugh.

Remember, tomato harvesting isn’t a race. It’s more of a meander through the garden on a lazy summer day. So go on, grab a basket, and let’s bring in the ‘mater bounty!

Common Tomato Varieties in Missouri

In Missouri, we’ve got more than just the Gateway Arch and fantastic barbecue, we also raise some lip-smacking good tomatoes. Whether you’re in KC or St. Louis, or somewhere in between, it’s time to roll up your sleeves, gather your stakes and cages, because we’re diving into the tomato varieties that make Missouri gardens truly shine. Let’s grow!

  1. Early Girl: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 50-60 days, VFF. She’s up and at ’em, just like us Missourians at dawn.
  2. Beefmaster: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 81 days, VFN. Bigger than a St. Louis smoked rib and twice as juicy.
  3. Better Boy: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 75 days, VFN. A sturdy, reliable tomato, just like our Mizzou Tigers.
  4. Celebrity: Hybrid, Determinate, 70 days, VFFNTA. With tomatoes like these, you’re bound to be the talk of the neighborhood.
  5. Roma: Heirloom, Determinate, 75-80 days, VF. The workhorse of tomatoes, just like us folks here in the Show-Me State.
  6. Supersonic: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 75 days, VF. Faster than a Cardinals fastball, these tomatoes don’t mess around.
  7. Brandywine: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 85-100 days. The taste is as rich as our Missouri history.
  8. Mountain Fresh: Hybrid, Determinate, 77 days, FF. As crisp as a fall day in the Ozarks.
  9. Jet Star: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 72 days, VF. Quick to ripen, just like our corn fields in the sun.
  10. Sweet 100: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 65 days, VF. Packed with as many tomatoes as there are fountains in Kansas City.
  11. Cherokee Purple: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80-90 days. Rich, hearty flavor that’s as Missouri as toasted ravioli.
  12. Big Boy: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 78 days, VFN. Big flavor that stands up to any KC barbeque sauce.
  13. Golden Jubilee: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 72 days. They’ll light up your garden like the sun reflecting off Table Rock Lake.
  14. Black Krim: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80 days. Rich and robust, just like our Missouri Merlot.
  15. Super Fantastic: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 70 days, VFN. They’re as delightful as a stroll through Forest Park.
  16. San Marzano: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80 days. The perfect tomato for your homemade St. Louis-style pizza sauce.
  17. Green Zebra: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 78 days. Unusual and quirky, just like the City Museum.
  18. Rutgers: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 75 days, VF. A hearty tomato that’ll hold its own, just like our Mizzou Tigers.
  19. Cherry Roma: Heirloom, Determinate, 70 days. The perfect pop of sweetness for your summer salads.
  20. Sungold: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 65 days. These golden beauties are as sweet as Missouri peaches.
  21. Amish Paste: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 85 days. The perfect addition to any hearty Ozarks stew.
  22. Husky Red Cherry: Hybrid, Determinate, 65 days, VFFA. Small but flavorful, these are as fun as a ride down the Mississippi.
  23. Pink Ponderosa: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80 days. As big and pink as a Missouri sunset.
  24. German Johnson: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80 days. Sweet and hearty, just like our famous Gooey Butter Cake.
  25. Golden Boy: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 72 days, VF. A bright, sunshiney addition to any Show-Me State garden.


Well, folks, we’ve journeyed through the ins and outs of planting tomatoes in our beautiful Show-Me State. From knowing the right time to plant (hint: think warm soil and frost-free nights) to understanding our various tomato-friendly regions and picking the best-suited varieties. We’ve delved into watering, feeding, caring, and finally harvesting those juicy ‘maters. We’ve even tackled those pesky diseases looking to crash our tomato party. Remember, growing tomatoes in Missouri is as fun as a barn dance, with the right know-how. So grab your gardening gloves and let’s show these tomatoes what Missouri gardeners are made of. Happy gardening, y’all!

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