From Seed to Harvest: When to Plant Tomatoes in Oklahoma

Howdy, Oklahoma green thumbs! Ever found yourself pondering when to plant tomatoes in our grand Sooner State? Don’t scratch your head any longer because we’ve got the juicy scoop for you. Join us on this tomato journey, where we’ll explore all the ins and outs of tomato planting time. Whether you’re an OKC urban gardener or out amongst the sprawling plains, we’ll cover what you need to know. Let’s laugh in the face of last year’s blight and get ready to grow the best dang tomatoes in Oklahoma. Now grab your hat, gardening gloves, and let’s get to it!

Know the Tomato Growing Regions in Oklahoma

You’ve asked a mighty good question there. When Okies hear “Oklahoma tomato growing regions,” they usually start thinkin’ about their own backyard. But, let’s pull back a spell and look at the whole state.

1. Eastern Oklahoma (Green Country)

Known for its lush and fertile soil, tomatoes here feel as pampered as a prized hog at the county fair. The generous rainfall and moderate temperatures make it a prime spot for growing a bountiful tomato harvest.

Major cities in this region include Tulsa and Broken Arrow. Notable counties include Tulsa County, Rogers County, and Wagoner County. These areas have the right conditions to grow some tasty tomatoes.

2. Southern Oklahoma (Kiamichi Country)

With its milder winters and longer growing season, tomatoes in this region have more time to grow and ripen, just like a well-aged Oklahoma barbecue sauce.

Here, cities like Durant, Ardmore, and Lawton would be prime spots for your tomato crops. Counties like Bryan County, Carter County, and Comanche County are also great contenders.

3. Central Oklahoma (Great Plains)

This region is where the heat of summer meets the chill of winter, creating a unique tomato-growing challenge. Choose hardy, quick-to-mature varieties for this terrain, and you’ll have tomatoes as robust as a Sooner footballer.

You can find Oklahoma City, Norman, and Edmond in this region. Oklahoma County, Cleveland County, and Canadian County are also known for their tomato-friendliness.

4. Northern Oklahoma (Red Carpet Country)

Growing tomatoes in this rocky soil might seem as tricky as roping a runaway calf, but with a bit of preparation, the rewards can be bountiful.

This region includes cities such as Enid and Ponca City. Garfield County and Kay County could provide the perfect stage for your tomato-growing show.

5. Western Oklahoma (Panhandle and Plains)

Despite its arid conditions, tomatoes can thrive here with a bit of extra care. Choose drought-resistant varieties and your tomato plants will be as resilient as an Okie in a dust storm.

The cities of Woodward and Guymon, along with Woodward County and Texas County, might be as challenging as a bronco ride at first, but with a bit of tenacity, your tomatoes can thrive.

When to plant tomatoes in Oklahoma

Let’s wrangle up that information and get you ready for the great Oklahoma tomato growing bonanza!

1. Eastern Oklahoma (Green Country)

• Micro-climate: Moderately humid, rich soil, and generous rainfall.
• USDA plant hardiness zone: Mostly Zones 6b to 7a.
• Approximate first frost date: Mid-November.
• Approximate last frost date: Late March to early April.
• Average length of the growing season: About 210 days.
• Start seeds indoors: 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.
• When to transplant: When soil temperature consistently reaches over 60°F after the last frost date.
• Risk-free time range to transplant outdoor: Roughly between April 10 and August 1.

2. Central Oklahoma (Great Plains)

• Micro-climate: Experiences both hot summers and cold winters.
• USDA plant hardiness zone: Primarily Zone 7a.
• Approximate first frost date: Early November.
• Approximate last frost date: Early to mid-April.
• Average length of the growing season: Around 200 days.
• Start seeds indoors: 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.
• When to transplant: When soil temperature consistently hits above 60°F post last frost date.
• Risk-free time range to transplant outdoor: Roughly between April 15 and July 25.

3. Western Oklahoma (Panhandle and Plains)

• Micro-climate: Arid and dry conditions.
• USDA plant hardiness zone: Mostly Zone 6b to 7a.
• Approximate first frost date: Late October.
• Approximate last frost date: Late April.
• Average length of the growing season: Approximately 180 days.
• Start seeds indoors: 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.
• When to transplant: When soil temperature consistently stays above 60°F after the last frost.
• Risk-free time range to transplant outdoor: Roughly between May 10 and July 10.

4. Southern Oklahoma (Kiamichi Country)

• Micro-climate: Milder winters and longer growing season, just like a Sunday afternoon picnic.
• USDA plant hardiness zone: Primarily in Zone 7b.
• Approximate first frost date: Late November.
• Approximate last frost date: Mid-March to early April.
• Average length of the growing season: Around 230 days, nearly as long as a good ol’ country ballad.
• Start seeds indoors: 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.
• When to transplant: When soil temperature consistently reaches above 60°F after the last frost date.
• Risk-free time range to transplant outdoor: Roughly between April 1 and August 15.

5. Northern Oklahoma (Red Carpet Country)

• Micro-climate: Rocky soil conditions, but with the right prep, your tomatoes will shine like a debutante at a ball.
• USDA plant hardiness zone: Mostly Zones 6b to 7a.
• Approximate first frost date: Early November.
• Approximate last frost date: Mid-April.
• Average length of the growing season: About 200 days.
• Start seeds indoors: 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.
• When to transplant: When soil temperature consistently hits above 60°F post last frost date.
• Risk-free time range to transplant outdoor: Roughly between April 20 and July 30.

Best Tips and Tricks to Prepare Tomato Seeds in Oklahoma

Pull up a rocking chair, kick off those boots, and let’s chat about some homegrown Okie tips and tricks for prepping your tomato seeds and beds, right up until that pivotal transplant moment.

1. Seed Starting

Start off by inviting your tomato seeds to a cozy indoor party about 6-8 weeks before the last frost date. Plant those little fellas about a quarter inch deep in some quality seed starting mix, preferably in a biodegradable pot. It’s like the VIP lounge for your soon-to-be tomato plants.

2. Lights and Heat

Tomatoes are sun worshippers, so keep those seedlings near a sunny window or under grow lights. They also like their toes warm, so consider a heat mat. Think of it as a heated blanket during an Oklahoma ice storm.

3. Seed Bed Prep

While those seeds are having their indoor soirée, it’s time to prep the outdoor dance floor, aka your garden bed. Work in plenty of organic compost or well-rotted manure. It’s like a smorgasbord for your plants’ roots.

4. Hardening Off

Before the big move outdoors, your seedlings need to toughen up a bit, kind of like a pre-season football camp. This process is called ‘hardening off’. Start by setting them outside for a few hours each day, gradually increasing the time and exposure to wind and sun.

5. Planting Time

When your soil temps consistently hit 60°F – that’s swimsuit weather for tomatoes – and all danger of frost has passed, it’s time to transplant. Plant them deep, up to the first set of true leaves. Tomatoes are oddballs that grow roots all along the buried stem.

6. Watering

After transplanting, water those babies in well. They’ve had a shock, so think of it as offering them a comforting glass of sweet tea.

How to Transplant Tomatoes in Oklahoma

Transplanting your tomato plants is like a rite of passage in the gardening world, a real debutante ball for your maturing seedlings. Here in Oklahoma, we’ve got some good ol’ down-home advice to guide you through this green-thumb hoedown.

1. Choosing the Right Time

Remember, timing in gardening is like knowing when to flip your steak on the grill. Too early or too late, and you’ll regret it. For tomatoes, the soil temperature should be consistently 60°F and all threat of frost gone, just like those winters we all wish would hurry up and skedaddle.

2. Preparing the New Home

Whether it’s a patch of land, a raised bed, or planters, make sure the new homes for your seedlings are deep and roomy. Mix in some compost or aged manure for a nourishing welcome meal. It’s like bringing a casserole to your new neighbors.

3. Planting Deep

Remember, tomatoes aren’t like other plants. They’re more like Okies: a bit quirky, but in a good way. Plant them deep, right up to their first set of true leaves, because they’ll sprout roots all along their stems.

4. Watering

After transplanting, soak the soil around each plant like a good rain on a hot August day. This helps the plants settle into their new home and reduces shock.

5. Mulching

Once the soil has warmed up nicely, add some mulch around your plants. This keeps the soil cooler, reduces weed competition, and prevents soil-borne diseases from splashing up during rainfall. You wouldn’t leave your house without boots in a storm, right? Same principle here.

6. Support

Tomatoes are a lot like a good dance partner: they do better with a little support. Install cages or stakes early on to avoid damaging roots later.

How to Prepare Soil for Planting Tomatoes in Oklahoma

Good to see someone interested in the noble art of soil preparation for our sun-lovin’, fruit-givin’ tomato pals. I reckon you’re familiar with our Oklahoma red dirt, so let’s get down and dirty with some prime tips to prep your garden for a tomato hoedown.

1. Test the Waters… or Rather, the Soil

Start by getting a soil test done – it’s like getting a full physical before you run the Oklahoma City Marathon. You’ve got to know what you’re workin’ with. The test will tell you what nutrients your soil’s packin’, and what it’s lackin’.

2. Compost is King

Think of compost as the Holy Grail of gardenin’. It adds organic matter to the soil, improves drainage, and provides nutrients. Add a 2-3 inch layer to your bed and mix it in. It’s the sweet tea of soil amendments – your tomatoes will drink it right up!

3. Balance the pH

Tomatoes like a slightly acidic home, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. If your soil’s on the alkaline side (that’s higher than 7.0), add some sulfur. If it’s too acidic (lower than 6.0), add some lime. It’s all about balance, just like adding sugar to your Granny’s rhubarb pie.

4. Double Digging – A Workout Worth Doing

Dig down deep, about two shovel lengths, and turn the soil over. This’ll break up hard layers and make it easier for roots to penetrate. It’s like aerobics for your garden bed – feel the burn!

5. Add Some Grit

If your soil’s too heavy or clay-like (you know, like the mud at the Red River after a good storm), consider adding some coarse sand or fine gravel. This will improve drainage and prevent your tomato roots from drowning during those spring downpours.

6. Fertilize Wisely

Once your tomatoes are in the ground, add a balanced fertilizer (like a 10-10-10). Avoid anything high in nitrogen – we’re growing tomatoes here, not corn. Too much nitrogen will give you lush, green plants… but no tomatoes. That’s like all sizzle and no steak!

How to Fertilize Tomatoes in Oklahoma

So you’re lookin’ to jazz up your tomatoes with a little nutritional boost, are ya? Well, you’re in luck! This old Okie’s got some down-home, earth-loving advice to make your tomatoes the talk of the town…or at least your backyard.

1. Start With a Good Soil Test

Think of it as the same as figuring out what’s for dinner. You’ve got to know what’s in the pantry before you can start cooking. A soil test will let you know what nutrients your soil is packin’ and what it might be missin’.

2. The Three Musketeers – NPK

Tomatoes are heavy feeders and they need balanced nutrition. Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the big three. Too much nitrogen, though, and you’ll have plants big enough to shade a cow, but no tomatoes. A balanced fertilizer, like a 10-10-10, is a safe bet.

3. Side-Dressing – It’s Not Just for Salad

Once your plants have set fruit, give them an extra dose of fertilizer. Just sprinkle it around the base of the plant, a few inches from the stem. It’s like ordering a side of fries with your burger… a little something extra to make things perfect.

4. Compost Tea – The Brew of Champions

Use compost tea as a foliar spray every couple of weeks. It’s like giving your plants a refreshing beverage on a hot Oklahoma day. Not only does it provide nutrients, but it can also help ward off those pesky diseases.

5. Don’t Forget the Calcium

Blossom end rot is a common problem with tomatoes and it’s caused by a lack of calcium. You can add some crushed eggshells to the soil to help with this. And besides, who doesn’t love a good egg for breakfast?

6. Epsom Salts for the Win

Epsom salts aren’t just for soaking your feet after a long day in the garden. Sprinkle some around your plants to give them a magnesium boost. It helps with plant vigor and fruit production. Think of it as a little spa treatment for your tomato plants!

Tomato Plant Care Tips and Tricks in Oklahoma

If you’re ready to treat your tomatoes like the garden royalty they are, you’ve come to the right place. Tomato care in the Sooner State is a labor of love, just like perfecting granny’s fried chicken recipe. Here are a few tips to keep those beauties happy and healthy.

1. Prune like a Pro

Pruning tomatoes isn’t just a fancy gardener trick, it helps direct the plant’s energy to producing fruits. So, put on your best cowpoke hat and snip off any non-fruiting branches. But don’t go all Wild West on them, gentle is the way to go.

2. Sunbathe Sensibly

Tomatoes love sun more than a tourist at an Oklahoma lake in mid-July. Ensure they get at least 6-8 hours of sunlight each day. However, in the peak of summer, a little afternoon shade wouldn’t hurt. It’ll prevent sunscald, the plant equivalent of a sunburn.

3. Water Wisely

Water deeply but infrequently, to encourage the roots to go deep. You don’t want your tomato plants to develop shallow roots like a reality TV star, right? Avoid watering the leaves; tomatoes dislike being wet on top as much as your cat does.

4. Keep it Clean

Remove any diseased or yellowing leaves as soon as you spot them. It’s like getting rid of that one cousin who always causes trouble at family reunions.

5. Support is Key

Just like we all need a little support from time to time, so do your tomatoes. A good cage or stake will do the trick, keeping them off the ground and avoiding diseases. It’s like your tomato’s own personal chaise lounge.

6. Mind the Mulch

Mulch helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and prevent weeds. It’s like giving your tomatoes their very own comfort blanket. Just wait until the ground warms up to apply it, you don’t want to keep the soil too cool.

7. Bug Off

Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Regularly check under leaves for any uninvited guests. If you find any, it’s time to take action faster than a jackrabbit in a prairie fire.

How to Water Tomato Plants in Oklahoma

Watering tomatoes here in the Sooner State isn’t like waterin’ the lawn on a Sunday afternoon. No sirree, it’s an art, a science, and a bit of good ol’ Oklahoma instinct. Grab your watering can, and let’s dive in.

1. Don’t Go Overboard

Too much of a good thing ain’t always great – we’re looking at you, Grandma’s apple pie at Thanksgiving. Tomatoes don’t want to swim; they need deep, infrequent watering, which encourages their roots to grow nice and deep.

2. In the Morning, Partner

Watering in the cool mornin’ hours is best. It lets the plant drink up before the heat of the day, and allows any water that gets on the leaves to dry out, reducing disease risk. It’s like grabbing a hearty breakfast before a long day on the ranch.

3. Avoid a Tomato Shower

Tomato plants hate getting their leaves wet more than a cat hates bath time. Always water at the base of the plant. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems can be your best friend here. They’re the Labrador Retriever of garden tools – always dependable.

4. Poke it, Don’t Soak it

How do you know when to water? Well, stick your finger into the soil about an inch deep. If it’s dry, it’s time to hydrate those tomatoes. Remember, it’s not just about the schedule, it’s about what the plant needs.

5. Mulch, Mulch, and More Mulch

A good layer of mulch is like the perfect hat on a hot day. It keeps the soil cooler, helps retain moisture, and slows down evaporation. That’s three birds with one stone, and we’re not even trying to cook dinner!

6. A Drink for the Hot Days

On those typical scorching Oklahoma summer days, your tomatoes may need a little extra. If they start to wilt in the afternoon heat, give them a bit more water. But remember, wilting in the afternoon is normal; it’s the plant’s way of saying, “Darn, it’s hot!”

Common Tomato Diseases in Oklahoma

Sometimes, even in the best gardens, trouble rolls in just like a summer storm in Oklahoma. Here are the most common tomato outlaws we face in our beloved Sooner State:

1. Early Blight

This fungal disease shows up as dark spots on older leaves. It’s as welcome as a skunk at a lawn party but can be controlled with proper crop rotation and by avoiding overhead watering.

2. Septoria Leaf Spot

This fella is a sneaky little fungus causing small spots with grey centers on leaves. A good ol’ dose of fungicide and some strict sanitation practices can keep this bandit at bay.

3. Fusarium Wilt

This fungal disease is like the outlaw that blocks the road, stopping water flow in your tomato plants. Crop rotation and resistant varieties are your best defense against this desperado.

4. Verticillium Wilt

Similar to Fusarium, this outlaw is another fungus blocking water transport. These two are like the Bonnie and Clyde of tomato diseases. Same defenses apply here.

5. Late Blight

This notorious scoundrel caused the Irish Potato Famine and can devastate tomatoes too. It causes large, greasy looking spots on leaves. Remove and destroy affected plants and try using disease-resistant varieties.

6. Bacterial Spot

This is like the common cold for tomatoes, causing dark, wet-looking spots on leaves. Copper sprays can help, but the best remedy is to buy resistant varieties and keep your garden clean.

7. Bacterial Wilt

A silent killer that causes plants to wilt and die without spots or yellowing. It’s more ruthless than a rattlesnake in a sleeping bag. The only defense is to use resistant varieties and practice crop rotation.

8. Southern Blight

This disease is as nasty as a tornado in tornado alley. It causes wilting, stem rot, and often, a white mold. Clear out and dispose of affected plants and debris promptly.

9. Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

This causes bronze, circular spots on leaves and fruit. It’s like graffiti on your beautiful tomatoes. Control thrips (the insects that spread it) to manage this disease.

10. Blossom End Rot

This isn’t a disease, but it’s a real troublemaker causing ugly black spots on the fruit’s bottom. It’s from uneven watering and calcium deficiency. Regular watering and a dose of lime to the soil can control this varmint.

How to Harvest Tomatoes in Oklahoma

Well, well, well, looks like we’ve finally made it to the finish line, the grand finale, the big pay-off – it’s tomato harvest time in the Sooner State. Grab your baskets and let’s get to pickin’. Here’s some top-tier advice, ripe as a juicy tomato:

1. The Right Color

Wait for your tomatoes to hit the right color for their variety before you pick ’em. Picking a tomato before its prime is like opening your Christmas presents in November, just ain’t the same, friend.

2. Don’t Play Tug-of-War

When pickin’ tomatoes, don’t yank ’em. They’re not stubborn mules. Instead, hold the fruit firmly and twist it off the vine. No tomato casualties on our watch!

3. The Early Bird

Try to harvest your tomatoes in the cool, early morning. The heat of the day can make ’em soft and less likely to survive the trip from the garden to the kitchen.

4. Be Gentle, Partner

Handle your tomatoes like you would a newborn kitten. They bruise easily. And nobody wants to serve bruised tomatoes at the Sunday barbecue.

5. Watch Out for the Rain

If a big rain is on the horizon, harvest your nearly ripe tomatoes. Too much water too fast can make ’em split faster than a flatlander running from a tornado.

6. Beware of Critters

Keep an eye out for any critters that might be eyeballing your tomatoes. If they start to go missing, it might be time to play detective. Could be birds, could be squirrels, could even be your neighbor!

7. Ripen Inside if Need Be

If frost threatens, pick your green tomatoes and let ’em ripen indoors. Not as good as vine-ripened, but it beats lettin’ ’em freeze.

Common Tomato Varieties in Oklahoma

Howdy there, fellow Okies! Now, we all know Oklahoma where the wind comes sweeping down the plain, but let’s talk about something else that’s awesome about our great state – tomatoes! We grow some of the tastiest, juiciest, and most bountiful tomatoes in the country, and we sure are proud of it. So whether you’re from Tulsa, Oklahoma City, or somewhere in between, let’s roll up our sleeves and dive into the top 25 tomato varieties for your Oklahoma garden. And remember, these tomatoes are as resilient as we are – because, just like us, they’ve seen tornados, hail, and the hottest day of summer and still turned out just fine.

1. Early Girl: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 50-60 days, VFF. Just like us Okies, these girls are early risers!
2. Brandywine: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80-100 days. Bursting with flavor as large as a Bigfoot footprint!
3. Roma: Heirloom, Determinate, 75-80 days, VF. Perfect for your next pasta sauce – or maybe the next official state meal?
4. Beefsteak: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 85-90 days. Big, hearty, and perfect for a slab of Oklahoma steak.
5. Better Boy: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 70-75 days, VFN. Dependable as our beloved Sooners.
6. Cherokee Purple: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80-90 days. As unique as our rich Native American history.
7. Sweet 100: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 65 days, VF. Small, sweet, and as plentiful as our sunflower fields.
8. Jet Star: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 72 days, VF. Because we’re all about speed and efficiency here.
9. Rutgers: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 70-75 days, VF. As sturdy as the oil derricks dotting our plains.
10. Sungold: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 65 days. Bright, juicy, and sun-loving – just like us!
11. Super Fantastic: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 70 days, VFN. This tomato is as fantastic as our sunsets.
12. Black Krim: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 69-80 days. A taste as deep as a Woody Guthrie ballad.
13. Mountain Pride: Hybrid, Determinate, 74 days, VF. As reliable as our stunning Arbuckle Mountains.
14. San Marzano: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 80 days. Ideal for canning – just like Granny used to do!
15. Yellow Pear: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 78 days. Sweet and bright, just like Oklahoma City at night.
16. Champion: Hybrid, Determinate, 65 days, VF. We do love our champions in this state.
17. Golden Jubilee: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 70 days. A ray of sunshine in your garden, just like our Oklahoma skies.
18. Big Beef: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 73 days, VFFNTA. A beefy tomato for our beef-loving state.
19. Pink Girl: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 76 days, VF. A sweet, pink delight as charming as an Oklahoma rose.
20. Patio: Hybrid, Determinate, 70 days, VF. Perfect for small spaces – and we all know an Okie can make do with any space!
21. Amish Paste: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 85 days. Full of history, just like our beautiful state.
22. Homestead: Heirloom, Determinate, 80 days. A resilient variety for our resilient people.
23. Goliath: Hybrid, Indeterminate, 65 days, VF. Big and bold, just like our Oklahoma spirit.
24. Green Zebra: Heirloom, Indeterminate, 78 days. As eye-catching as the views on Route 66.
25. Ace 55: Heirloom, Determinate, 80-85 days, VF. A solid performer, just like our state in any season!

Conclusion

Well folks, we’ve saddled up and ridden the trail of tomato growing in our grand Oklahoma. From planting time to choosing your favorite variety, and all the fun things in between, we’ve got it covered like a wagon in a rainstorm. Remember, Oklahoma’s varied regions can change your planting dates, so stay sharp. Keep those seeds warm and cozy indoors before last frost, and then give ’em their freedom in the great outdoors when the soil’s as warm as a fresh biscuit. With a bit of Oklahoma grit and a dose of humor, you’ll be swimming in succulent, home-grown tomatoes before you can say “Sooner State!” Happy gardening, y’all!